Off Topic: The Flood
This topic has moved here: Subject: Want to build a PC? PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood
  • Subject: Want to build a PC? PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood
Subject: Want to build a PC? PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood


Posted by: A Deaf Boy
Ok. Could someone tell me two things?

1) Why choose an Intel i5 over an Intel i3 processor? (assume both are Ivy Bridge) Does it impact the GPU performance at all (let's say a 560 Ti, 570, or 670?)

2) What cases are the best and cheapest for the following criteria; good cable management and window panel? I like Corsair's Obsidian series, but it's kinda pricey...Anyone know of a similar case, but cheaper?

Thanks!

edit: I'll probably never buy anything because every day I make a new build. SO MUCH INDECISION!

i5 makes your computer run faster generally, but, I am not aware of it affecting your GPU.

[Edited on 07.05.2012 3:46 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 3:45 PM PDT

Color The Sky
Lost In Las Vegas
Missed You

Remember all
The sadness and frustration
And let it go


Posted by: A Deaf Boy
1) Why choose an Intel i5 over an Intel i3 processor? (assume both are Ivy Bridge) Does it impact the GPU performance at all (let's say a 560 Ti, 570, or 670?)

The i5 has more cores, turbo boost, and a higher clock speed in general. And no, it doesn't affect your GPU.

Posted by: A Deaf Boy
2) What cases are the best and cheapest for the following criteria; good cable management and window panel? I like Corsair's Obsidian series, but it's kinda pricey...Anyone know of a similar case, but cheaper?

How much is said case?

  • 07.05.2012 3:47 PM PDT
  • gamertag: [none]
  • user homepage:

***Aberrant Designs***

Finished the fight on September 26,2007, 10:49pm EST
Remembered Reach on September 15th, 2010 9:30pm EST

Thanks guys. Btw I'm not interested in over clocking :)

Also, I believe the Corsair Obsidian series is around $150. I'd like something under $70, if possible :|

edit: On pcpartpicker.com, it's $141-ish. Again, a tad pricey for a case. It's sleek and cool looking, but if there's anything out there that is similar, but cheaper, I'd love to know!

[Edited on 07.05.2012 3:50 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 3:49 PM PDT


Posted by: A Deaf Boy
Thanks guys. Btw I'm not interested in over clocking :)

Also, I believe the Corsair Obsidian series is around $150. I'd like something under $70, if possible :|

This is in your price range.

And actually, for a newer Corsair, they are more than $200.

  • 07.05.2012 3:51 PM PDT

I believe I have perfected it! My only concern is if the power supply is powerful enough. Can anybody tell me? Is there any other option to save money, or is this about as good as it gets for the power I want, which is being able to play any game on Maximum, with over 90 FPS?
That PSU is cutting it awfully close from what I can tell. You might experience issues when everything is running at full since you have very little "comfort" room. I also can't say if you'll get 90 FPS on every game either.

I believe almost any game will be able to run decent enough with 2 mid-quality GPU's
Also, I added 100 Watts to the power supply.

-Update-
I made use of the 4 Memory Slots. Also saved about 3 dollars :P

-About 15 minutes later-
I done derped. Updated my update :P

[Edited on 07.05.2012 4:56 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 3:54 PM PDT


Posted by: A Deaf Boy
Ok. Could someone tell me two things?

1) Why choose an Intel i5 over an Intel i3 processor? (assume both are Ivy Bridge) Does it impact the GPU performance at all (let's say a 560 Ti, 570, or 670?)

2) What cases are the best and cheapest for the following criteria; good cable management and window panel? I like Corsair's Obsidian series, but it's kinda pricey...Anyone know of a similar case, but cheaper?

I believe the main difference between the tiers of the processors will be their cache size. This does heavily affect performance when memory intensive programs are being run. The other more mild difference would be clock speed. Ivy Bridge processors all support PCI-e 3.0.

For cases, I'm probably not the best person to ask. >.>

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
Actually, it's more like:
1. Motherboard
2. Chipset
3. RAM
4. CPU (I also hope you didn't place the fan back on like that.)
5. PCI Slots
6. Storage Drive

You were wrong on only 3 of the parts: #'s 2, 4b (Which was his CPU's fan) and 6, which technically wasn't wrong, but it was incorrect to state it simply as a Hard Drive.

The chipset is a controller, the fan is indeed a case fan, but simply attached to a heatsink, and the device he took a picture of is a 3.5" HDD.

  • 07.05.2012 3:55 PM PDT

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
Actually, it's more like:
1. Motherboard
2. Chipset
3. RAM
4. CPU (I also hope you didn't place the fan back on like that.)
5. PCI Slots
6. Storage Drive

You were wrong on only 3 of the parts: #'s 2, 4b (Which was his CPU's fan) and 6, which technically wasn't wrong, but it was incorrect to state it simply as a Hard Drive.

The chipset is a controller, the fan is indeed a case fan, but simply attached to a heatsink, and the device he took a picture of is a 3.5" HDD.

Let's not argue about technical details and try to stay on topic. Cause you know, bans and stuff happen when you get off topic.
Can anyone critique my update?

[Edited on 07.05.2012 4:41 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 4:38 PM PDT

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
-Update-
I made use of the Quad-Channel Memory Slots. Also saved about 3 dollars :P

I'm confused by what you mean with this? The i7 2600K only supports Dual channel memory, and the motherboard also only supports Dual channel memory. Other than that, your build looks nice.

  • 07.05.2012 4:44 PM PDT


Posted by: CostlyAxis
Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
-Update-
I made use of the Quad-Channel Memory Slots. Also saved about 3 dollars :P

I'm confused by what you mean with this? The i7 2600K only supports Dual channel memory, and the motherboard also only supports Dual channel memory. Other than that, your build looks nice.

Uhh... I forgot there was difference between Quad-Channel and 4 slots :P
I love derps :/
Fixed my update :P
However, if I remember correctly, using more slots with less memory in each one increases performance... at least I think I remember that right? And that Motherboard has 4 slots.

[Edited on 07.05.2012 4:56 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 4:51 PM PDT

FLOOD QUOTES!
Posted by: G3N3RAL R3VAN
The Flood....... if it doesn't go anywhere else, stick it her pooper
Posted by: xflox231
Idiots. I'm surrounded by idiots
Posted by: ferrrari
the flood, there a bunch of jerks, but there my jerks.

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
There is literally no point in doing quad channel, they act as dual channel.

  • 07.05.2012 5:22 PM PDT

Here is a little guide I decided to write (feel free to point out errors)

Needed material:
- CPU
- Motherboard
- GPU
- PSU
- SSD/HDD
- CD/Blu-ray drive
- RAM
- Heatsink/thermal paste
- Case
- Case speaker
- Monitor
- Keyboard/mouse
- Phillips/flat head screwdriver
- Coffee filters (if using after market heatsink)

Step 1: Research

This step is very important as you'll want to think about how you're going to go about assembling your computer. From the parts you'll choose to the requirements of those parts. This is where you'll envision the final result. Don't forget to begin flipping through the manual for your motherboard. It's going to tell you how to go about setting things up.

Step 2: Build an External Setup

While the chances are slim, there's always the possibility of a bad part that's simply dead. You really don't want to find out after you've attached your motherboard to the case and have everything done.

Setting up the external build:

Needed materials
- CPU
- Motherboard
- RAM
- GPU
- Case speaker
- Monitor
- Keyboard/mouse
- Screwdriver
- Heatsink/thermal paste
- PSU

As the title might have suggested, you're literally going to build a working version of your build outside of the case, minus the SSD/HDD. They're not needed to check if the machine posts.

You'll want to begin by finding a suitable surface to place the motherboard on that is not conductive. I personally used the box the motherboard came in (just don't place it on any of the plastic bags). Now that you've laid down the motherboard, install the CPU as the motherboard manual instructs. This could be as detailed as paragraphs, or as simple as pictures. For my build, I had an Intel processor where there is a triangle on one corner that matches with a triangle on the motherboard. There were also other indicators so basically there was only one way to place the CPU. Be careful not to exert force down on the CPU when you place it. After you've placed the CPU, lock it in with the latch, but do note there will be some resistance to the latching (and it might even seem excessive too).

With the CPU in place, you'll now need to place a heatsink on it to cool it. Do not start the computer ever without a heatsink properly placed on the CPU. It will fry. On the note of heatsinks, many CPUs do come with their own stock one which should already have thermal paste applied. If this is the case for you (and you don't plan to use an after market heatsink) simply attach the heatsink as instructed. However, if you go with an after market heatsink there is a bit more work to do. Depending on the CPU, heatsink, and thermal paste you have, the way of applying the thermal paste can vary. Be sure to research fully on the best way to apply it. In my case, I used Arctic Silver 5 which recommended what they called the "vertical" application which was simply to put a narrow line of paste across the center of the CPU. Also, it is advisable to "tint" the heatsink and CPU plate to lessen the "break-in" time for the paste to settle nicely (which required the coffee filters). Refer to the maker of the thermal paste for more detailed instructions on this.

Tip: As mentioned above, there is generally a break-in period for the thermal paste on your CPU. Right out of the box, your CPU will probably run hotter than you might expect because the thermal paste has not settled fully. In fact, it never fully settles but it does spread out and seep into the metal contacts. In my build, the estimated break-in period was 100 hours.

Now that the intricate part is done, you'll need to mount the after market heatsink. Be sure to read the instructions for proper installation. Generally, there will be a back plate that touches the back of the motherboard to provide standoffs for the heatsink.

Alright, you're almost done with the external build, but now you'll need to install your RAM. Remember to refer to your motherboard manual if you plan to take advantage of things like Dual channel/Quad channel memory. Refer to your CPU specifications to find out if it supports this. The position of your RAM DOES matter for this unless you're already going to fill up all of the slots, but if not, refer to the motherboard manual for possible configurations.

Once you're done with that, you'll need to connect your GPU to the motherboard. However, remember that the card will not be attached firmly and avoid lifting/shaking the board with the card attached. Refer to your motherboard manual to find the best slot to place the card in. Do not setup SLI/Crossfire configurations at this point.

We're almost there now, so connect the case speaker to the speaker pins (refer to motherboard manual to locate them if needed). The reason I suggest using the case speaker is because it's the fastest way to find out if something is wrong/good. The sound of a good post is a single beep followed by nothing (not plugging in your keyboard will cause other beeps usually). Refer to the motherboard manual for the specific beeps that can be made and note what causes those beeps. If you don't have a case speaker, the visual portion on the monitor should also help diagnose problems, if any.

Finally, attach your PSU to the components, and make sure everything is getting the power it needs. This doesn't have to look fancy or anything since you're not even in the case yet, but it will give you a good idea of what kind of you needs you'll have once finished.

As you may have noticed, you don't exactly have a way of starting up the computer since the case is what provides the power button. Well, you can still start the build with a metal object by touching both of the power pins (refer to the motherboard manual) really quickly (I recommend a flat head screwdriver for this). This should start up the external build if everything is connected properly. To turn off, simply cut the power (you don't really need to worry about doing so since it's not booting from anything). So make sure you've connected your monitor, keyboard, and such and go ahead and start it up. Should you have issues, refer to the manuals to diagnose, or even the internet. There's really no definite answer I can give. However, in the case everything worked out, you're ready to begin the internal build.

Step 3: The Internal Build

So from your external build, disconnect the PSU from everything, and remove the GPU. Everything else can stay on the motherboard. Setup your case in a well lit area and setup the standoffs for your motherboard form. Refer to your case's manual for the standoff layout for your form factor. Once you've done so, locate some holes on your motherboard, or standoff points.

In the case of a regular ATX form factor, there should be nine with one near each corner. These should be the only parts of the motherboard to physically touch the case. If they are not, make sure you have everything setup correctly before proceeding. Now you may have noticed that you have a large vertical hole in the back of the tower. Well this is for the cover that came with the motherboard. Be sure to have that cover in place on the inside of the case before attaching the motherboard.

Now that you have the motherboard attached to the case, you can begin connecting the cables in the case to their proper ports. Refer heavily to the motherboard's manual when doing this as many cases come with fans. The pins these fans are connected to on the motherboard can dramatically affect their performance. If you plan to use a fan controller, connect them as normal (I personally am of the opinion that my motherboard knows my computer's needs better than I do). Once these cables are connected, you can begin adding in your peripheral devices like your CD drive(s) and SSD/HDDs.

Tip: If you plan to have more than one SSD/HDD, only connect the one you plan to install your OS to at this time. It will simplify things when you're choosing which to install to initially.

After you've gotten those devices plugged in, it's time to place the PSU into the case. Depending on your case this could either be on the top or bottom (refer to the case manual if you are unsure where to attach it). Don't connect the PSU cables to your devices quite yet, and take a moment to think about how you will go about doing so. Many cases have extra space on the opposite side of the motherboard's mount to place cables through. So while you're thinking about that, don't forget to attach your GPU back to the motherboard and secure it. Note that some GPUs will take up two back slots, and if you're doing SLI/Crossfire you can connect them. You might also consider now to be a good time to install the CD drive if you forgot.

Now that you've had time to think over how you'll position the PSU cables, go about connecting them. If you're using a modular PSU this step should be pretty simple, but if you are not, don't forget to keep the cables as tidy as you can.

Step 4: Pray and Push the Power Button
At this point you have accomplished the following:
- Motherboard installed
- CPU installed with heatsink
- RAM installed in proper configuration
- GPU installed
- PSU installed
- SSD/HDD installed
- Case setup
- CD drive (if you installed one)
- Some other things that I'm forgetting for one reason or another.

You'll now want to start up the system and see if everything is running. Again, listen for the beep(s), and diagnose issues as needed. After that you'll need to install your OS, but that's smooth sailing. Just don't forget to connect any SSD/HDDs you disconnected before.

Also, make sure to get the latest drivers for your motherboard and GPU. I recommend getting the motherboard ones first. You can your drivers from the manufacturer's respective websites. For the motherboard you'll need the drivers for the chipset, LAN, USB, and audio.

[Edited on 07.06.2012 3:22 AM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 5:28 PM PDT


Posted by: CostlyAxis
Here is a little guide I decided to write (but then ran out of characters; feel free to point out errors)
Material:
CPU
Motherboard
GPU
PSU
SSD/HDD
CD/Blu-ray drive
RAM
Heatsink/thermal paste
Case
Case speaker
Monitor
Keyboard/mouse
Phillips/flat head screwdriver
Coffee filters (if using after market heatsink)
Step 1: Research
This step is very important as you'll want to think about how you're going to go about assembling your computer. From the parts you'll choose to the requirements of those parts. This is where you'll envision the final result. Don't forget to begin flipping through the manual for your motherboard. It's going to tell you how to go about setting things up.
Step 2: Build an External Setup
While the chances are slim, there's always the possibility of a bad part that's simply dead. You really don't want to find out after you've attached your motherboard to the case and have everything done.
Setting up the external build:
Materials
CPU
Motherboard
RAM
GPU
Case speaker
Monitor
H Interface
Screwdriver
Fan
PSU
As the title might have suggested, you're literally going to build a working version of your build outside of the case, minus the SSD/HDD. They're not needed to check if the machine posts.
You'll want to begin by finding a suitable surface to place the motherboard on that is not conductive. I personally used the box the motherboard came in (just don't place it on any of the plastic bags). Now that you've laid down the motherboard, install the CPU as the motherboard manual instructs. This could be as detailed as paragraphs, or as simple as pictures. For my build, I had an Intel processor where there is a triangle on one corner that matches with a triangle on the motherboard. There were also other indicators so basically there was only one way to place the CPU. Be careful not to exert force down on the CPU when you place it. After you've placed the CPU, lock it in with the latch, but do note there will be some resistance to the latching (and it might even seem excessive too).
With the CPU in place, you'll now need to place a heatsink on it to cool it. Do not start the computer ever without a heatsink properly placed on the CPU. It will fry. On the note of heatsinks, many CPUs do come with their own stock one which should already have thermal paste applied. If this is the case for you (and you don't plan to use an after market heatsink) simply attach the heatsink as instructed. However, if you go with an after market heatsink there is a bit more work to do. Depending on the CPU, heatsink, and thermal paste you have, the way of applying the thermal paste can vary. Be sure to research fully on the best way to apply it. In my case, I used Arctic Silver 5 which recommended what they called the "vertical" application which was simply to put a narrow line of paste across the center of the CPU. Also, it is advisable to "tint" the heatsink and CPU plate to lessen the "break-in" time for the paste to settle nicely (which required the coffee filters). Refer to the maker of the thermal paste for more detailed instructions on this.
Tip: As mentioned above, there is generally a break-in period for the thermal paste on your CPU. Right out of the box, your CPU will probably run hotter than you might expect because the thermal paste has not settled fully. In fact, it never fully settles but it does spread out and seep into the metal contacts. In my build, the estimated break-in period was 100 hours.
Now that the intricate part is done, you'll need to mount the after market heatsink. Be sure to read the instructions for proper installation. Generally, there will be a back plate that touches the back of the motherboard to provide standoffs for the heatsink.
Alright, you're almost done with the external build, but now you'll need to install your RAM. Remember to refer to your motherboard manual if you plan to take advantage of things like Dual channel/Quad channel memory. Refer to your CPU specifications to find out if it supports this. The position of your RAM DOES matter for this unless you're already going to fill up all of the slots, but if not, refer to the motherboard manual for possible configurations.
Once you're done with that, you'll need to connect your GPU to the motherboard. However, remember that the card will not be attached firmly and avoid lifting/shaking the board with the card attached. Refer to your motherboard manual to find the best slot to place the card in. Do not setup SLI/Crossfire configurations at this point.
We're almost there now, so connect the case speaker to the speaker pins (refer to motherboard manual to locate them if needed). The reason I suggest using the case speaker is because it's the fastest way to find out if something is wrong/good. The sound of a good post is a single beep followed by nothing (not plugging in your keyboard will cause other beeps usually). Refer to the motherboard manual for the specific beeps that can be made and note what causes those beeps. If you don't have a case speaker, the visual portion on the monitor should also help diagnose problems, if any.
Finally, attached your PSU to the components, and make sure everything is getting the power it needs. This doesn't have to look fancy or anything since you're not even in the case yet, but it will give you a good idea of what kind of you needs you'll have once finished.
As you may have noticed, you don't exactly have a way of starting up the computer since the case is what provides the power button. Well, you can still start the build with a metal object by touching both of the power pins (refer to the motherboard manual) really quickly (I recommend a flat head screwdriver for this). This should start up the external build if everything is connected properly. To turn off, simply cut the power (you don't really need to worry about doing so since it's not booting from anything). So make sure you've connected your monitor, keyboard, and such and go ahead and start it up. Should you have issues, refer to the manuals to diagnose, or even the internet. There's really no definite answer I can give. However, in the case everything worked out, you're ready to begin the internal build.
Step 3: The Internal Build
So from your external build, disconnect the PSU from everything, and remove the GPU. Everything else can stay on the motherboard. Setup your case in a well lit area and setup the standoffs for your motherboard form. Refer to your case's manual for the standoff layout for your form factor. Once you've done so, locate some holes on your motherboard, or standoff points.
In the case of a regular ATX form factor, there should be nine with one near each corner. These should be the only parts of the motherboard to physically touch the case. If they are not, make sure you have everything setup correctly before proceeding. Now you may have noticed that you have a large vertical hole in the back of the tower. Well this is for the cover that came with the motherboard. Be sure to have that cover in place before attaching the motherboard.
Now that you have the motherboard attached to the case, you can begin connecting the cables in the case to their proper ports. Refer heavily to the motherboard's manual when doing this as many cases come with fans. The pins these fans are connected to on the motherboard can dramatically affect their performance. If you plan to use a fan controller, connect them as normal (I personally am of the opinion that my motherboard knows my computer's needs better than I do). Once these cables are connected, you can begin adding in your peripheral devices like your CD drive(s) and SSD/HDDs.
Tip: If you plan to have more than one SSD/HDD, only connect the one you plan to install your OS to at this time. It will simplify things when you're choosing which to install to initially.
After you've gotten those devices plugged in, it's time to place the PSU into the case. Depending on your case this could either be on the top or bottom (refer to the case manual if you are unsure where to attach it). Don't connect the PSU cables to your devices quite yet, and take a moment to think about how you will go about doing so. Many cases have extra space on the opposite side of the motherboard's mount to place cables through. So while you're thinking about that, don't forget to attach your GPU back to the motherboard and secure it. Note that some GPUs will take up two back slots, and if you're doing SLI/Crossfire you can connect them. You might also consider now to be a good time to install the CD drive if you forgot.
Now that you've had time to think over how you'll position the PSU cables, go about connecting them. If you're using a modular PSU this step should be pretty simple, but if you are not, don't forget to keep the cables as tidy as you can.

Step 4: Pray and Push the Power Button
At this point you have accomplished the following:
Motherboard installed
CPU installed with heatsink
RAM installed in proper configuration
GPU installed
PSU installed
SSD/HDD installed
Case setup
CD drive (if you installed one)
Some other things that I'm forgetting for one reason or another.
You'll now want to start up the system and see if everything is running. Again, listen for the beep(s), and diagnose issues as needed.
Also, make sure to get the latest drivers for your motherboard and GPU. I recommend getting the motherboard ones first. You can your drivers from the manufacturer's respective websites. For the motherboard you'll need the drivers for the chipset, LAN, USB, and audio.

Here is step 1 in a video, and here is the rest.

  • 07.05.2012 5:38 PM PDT

FLOOD QUOTES!
Posted by: G3N3RAL R3VAN
The Flood....... if it doesn't go anywhere else, stick it her pooper
Posted by: xflox231
Idiots. I'm surrounded by idiots
Posted by: ferrrari
the flood, there a bunch of jerks, but there my jerks.

Didn't feel like reading it to check, but in newegg's videos they said when you boot with the components inside the case for the first time leave the left side panel off. It's superstition some mumbo jumbo, and it won't boot otherwise.

EDIT: Oh! Speak of the devil! there the videos are lol.

[Edited on 07.05.2012 5:39 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 5:38 PM PDT

Still very helpful if you need to print out instructions, though. Props to you for writing all that.

  • 07.05.2012 5:40 PM PDT


Posted by: Ferrari DuDe856
Didn't feel like reading it to check, but in newegg's videos they said when you boot with the components inside the case for the first time leave the left side panel off. It's superstition some mumbo jumbo, and it won't boot otherwise.

EDIT: Oh! Speak of the devil! there the videos are lol.

You have no idea how much editing it took to be able to quote that and put links to videos on there...
OT: So, should I just get 2 sticks of 8GB RAM, or is 4 sticks of 4 just as good? Saving me $3 :P

  • 07.05.2012 5:41 PM PDT

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
You have no idea how much editing it took to be able to quote that and put links to videos on there...
OT: So, should I just get 2 sticks of 8GB RAM, or is 4 sticks of 4 just as good? Saving me $3 :P

You'd be better off with the four sticks so you get Dual channel across the two. All in all, you might want to see if your motherboard suggests a certain configuration over another (it probably doesn't).

  • 07.05.2012 5:45 PM PDT


Posted by: CostlyAxis
Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
You have no idea how much editing it took to be able to quote that and put links to videos on there...
OT: So, should I just get 2 sticks of 8GB RAM, or is 4 sticks of 4 just as good? Saving me $3 :P

You'd be better off with the four sticks so you get Dual channel across the two. All in all, you might want to see if your motherboard suggests a certain configuration over another (it probably doesn't).

4 sticks also requires more power from the PSU

  • 07.05.2012 5:48 PM PDT


Posted by: kikashi hatake

Posted by: CostlyAxis
Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
You have no idea how much editing it took to be able to quote that and put links to videos on there...
OT: So, should I just get 2 sticks of 8GB RAM, or is 4 sticks of 4 just as good? Saving me $3 :P

You'd be better off with the four sticks so you get Dual channel across the two. All in all, you might want to see if your motherboard suggests a certain configuration over another (it probably doesn't).

4 sticks also requires more power from the PSU

Alright, how much wattage do you think that will need... And will it break the bank on the electricity bill?

  • 07.05.2012 5:51 PM PDT

"No one ever dies a virgin because life -blam!-s you in the end."

How do I PC?

  • 07.05.2012 5:58 PM PDT

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
Alright, how much wattage do you think that will need... And will it break the bank on the electricity bill?

That 750 Watt PSU you have should do fine. RAM doesn't exactly use that much wattage.
Posted by: THEREDHAWK422
How do I PC?

Here is how you PC.

  • 07.05.2012 6:02 PM PDT


Posted by: CostlyAxis
Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
Alright, how much wattage do you think that will need... And will it break the bank on the electricity bill?

That 750 Watt PSU you have should do fine. RAM doesn't exactly use that much wattage.

I meant in all, I know RAM doesn't need that much power :P

[Edited on 07.05.2012 6:06 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 6:05 PM PDT

Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
I meant in all, I know RAM doesn't need that much power :P

Well, when I ran your parts through Newegg's PSU calculator it came out to around 630 Watts, which is why I recommended a higher wattage at that time. The additional RAM shouldn't push you over.

  • 07.05.2012 6:10 PM PDT


Posted by: CostlyAxis
Posted by: PerturbedCupid9
I meant in all, I know RAM doesn't need that much power :P

Well, when I ran your parts through Newegg's PSU calculator it came out to around 630 Watts, which is why I recommended a higher wattage at that time. The additional RAM shouldn't push you over.

Ahh, okay. I think this design is good, I can't think of anything to change, except maybe make the motherboard the Extreme model of the current one, although for a bit more power while being almost $50+ more, I doubt I will.

Thanks to everybody for the help :D!

[Edited on 07.05.2012 6:14 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 6:13 PM PDT

Posted by: A sweet noob
Ah, the internet. Where men are men, women are men, and children are the FBI.

Is this a good monitor (price is $150 at amazon after rebate)? Is there a better one for a similar price?

  • 07.05.2012 7:33 PM PDT

Posted by: Gandalf: I'm new. And a wizard.

Sapphire just got even more awesome.

Posted by: mount420: You are late.
Posted by: jaythenerdkid: A wizard is never late.
Posted by: THORSGOD: Nor is he ever early. He arrives precisely when he means to.

CostlyAxis, that was the best building guide I think I've ever read (I read them quite a lot on various forums), you really hit the nail on the head.

The only errors I noticed were grammatical, in this paragraph:

Finally, attached your PSU to the components, and make sure everything is getting the power it needs. This doesn't have to look fancy or anything since you're not even in the case yet, but it will give you a good idea of what kind of you needs you'll have once finished.

I don't know what you wanted to do with those =P

But yeah, everything was spot on. Should be going into the OP.

EDIT: You should also make a mention of how the motherboard's back I/O plate goes in from the inside of the case, rather than from the outside. =)


[Edited on 07.05.2012 7:58 PM PDT]

  • 07.05.2012 7:55 PM PDT