- CostlyAxis
- |
- Intrepid Mythic Member
Here is a little guide I decided to write (feel free to point out errors)
Needed material:
- CPU
- Motherboard
- GPU
- PSU
- SSD/HDD
- CD/Blu-ray drive
- RAM
- Heatsink/thermal paste
- Case
- Case speaker
- Monitor
- Keyboard/mouse
- Phillips/flat head screwdriver
- Coffee filters (if using after market heatsink)
Step 1: Research
This step is very important as you'll want to think about how you're going to go about assembling your computer. From the parts you'll choose to the requirements of those parts. This is where you'll envision the final result. Don't forget to begin flipping through the manual for your motherboard. It's going to tell you how to go about setting things up.
Step 2: Build an External Setup
While the chances are slim, there's always the possibility of a bad part that's simply dead. You really don't want to find out after you've attached your motherboard to the case and have everything done.
Setting up the external build:
Needed materials
- CPU
- Motherboard
- RAM
- GPU
- Case speaker
- Monitor
- Keyboard/mouse
- Screwdriver
- Heatsink/thermal paste
- PSU
As the title might have suggested, you're literally going to build a working version of your build outside of the case, minus the SSD/HDD. They're not needed to check if the machine posts.
You'll want to begin by finding a suitable surface to place the motherboard on that is not conductive. I personally used the box the motherboard came in (just don't place it on any of the plastic bags). Now that you've laid down the motherboard, install the CPU as the motherboard manual instructs. This could be as detailed as paragraphs, or as simple as pictures. For my build, I had an Intel processor where there is a triangle on one corner that matches with a triangle on the motherboard. There were also other indicators so basically there was only one way to place the CPU. Be careful not to exert force down on the CPU when you place it. After you've placed the CPU, lock it in with the latch, but do note there will be some resistance to the latching (and it might even seem excessive too).
With the CPU in place, you'll now need to place a heatsink on it to cool it. Do not start the computer ever without a heatsink properly placed on the CPU. It will fry. On the note of heatsinks, many CPUs do come with their own stock one which should already have thermal paste applied. If this is the case for you (and you don't plan to use an after market heatsink) simply attach the heatsink as instructed. However, if you go with an after market heatsink there is a bit more work to do. Depending on the CPU, heatsink, and thermal paste you have, the way of applying the thermal paste can vary. Be sure to research fully on the best way to apply it. In my case, I used Arctic Silver 5 which recommended what they called the "vertical" application which was simply to put a narrow line of paste across the center of the CPU. Also, it is advisable to "tint" the heatsink and CPU plate to lessen the "break-in" time for the paste to settle nicely (which required the coffee filters). Refer to the maker of the thermal paste for more detailed instructions on this.
Tip: As mentioned above, there is generally a break-in period for the thermal paste on your CPU. Right out of the box, your CPU will probably run hotter than you might expect because the thermal paste has not settled fully. In fact, it never fully settles but it does spread out and seep into the metal contacts. In my build, the estimated break-in period was 100 hours.
Now that the intricate part is done, you'll need to mount the after market heatsink. Be sure to read the instructions for proper installation. Generally, there will be a back plate that touches the back of the motherboard to provide standoffs for the heatsink.
Alright, you're almost done with the external build, but now you'll need to install your RAM. Remember to refer to your motherboard manual if you plan to take advantage of things like Dual channel/Quad channel memory. Refer to your CPU specifications to find out if it supports this. The position of your RAM DOES matter for this unless you're already going to fill up all of the slots, but if not, refer to the motherboard manual for possible configurations.
Once you're done with that, you'll need to connect your GPU to the motherboard. However, remember that the card will not be attached firmly and avoid lifting/shaking the board with the card attached. Refer to your motherboard manual to find the best slot to place the card in. Do not setup SLI/Crossfire configurations at this point.
We're almost there now, so connect the case speaker to the speaker pins (refer to motherboard manual to locate them if needed). The reason I suggest using the case speaker is because it's the fastest way to find out if something is wrong/good. The sound of a good post is a single beep followed by nothing (not plugging in your keyboard will cause other beeps usually). Refer to the motherboard manual for the specific beeps that can be made and note what causes those beeps. If you don't have a case speaker, the visual portion on the monitor should also help diagnose problems, if any.
Finally, attach your PSU to the components, and make sure everything is getting the power it needs. This doesn't have to look fancy or anything since you're not even in the case yet, but it will give you a good idea of what kind of you needs you'll have once finished.
As you may have noticed, you don't exactly have a way of starting up the computer since the case is what provides the power button. Well, you can still start the build with a metal object by touching both of the power pins (refer to the motherboard manual) really quickly (I recommend a flat head screwdriver for this). This should start up the external build if everything is connected properly. To turn off, simply cut the power (you don't really need to worry about doing so since it's not booting from anything). So make sure you've connected your monitor, keyboard, and such and go ahead and start it up. Should you have issues, refer to the manuals to diagnose, or even the internet. There's really no definite answer I can give. However, in the case everything worked out, you're ready to begin the internal build.
Step 3: The Internal Build
So from your external build, disconnect the PSU from everything, and remove the GPU. Everything else can stay on the motherboard. Setup your case in a well lit area and setup the standoffs for your motherboard form. Refer to your case's manual for the standoff layout for your form factor. Once you've done so, locate some holes on your motherboard, or standoff points.
In the case of a regular ATX form factor, there should be nine with one near each corner. These should be the only parts of the motherboard to physically touch the case. If they are not, make sure you have everything setup correctly before proceeding. Now you may have noticed that you have a large vertical hole in the back of the tower. Well this is for the cover that came with the motherboard. Be sure to have that cover in place on the inside of the case before attaching the motherboard.
Now that you have the motherboard attached to the case, you can begin connecting the cables in the case to their proper ports. Refer heavily to the motherboard's manual when doing this as many cases come with fans. The pins these fans are connected to on the motherboard can dramatically affect their performance. If you plan to use a fan controller, connect them as normal (I personally am of the opinion that my motherboard knows my computer's needs better than I do). Once these cables are connected, you can begin adding in your peripheral devices like your CD drive(s) and SSD/HDDs.
Tip: If you plan to have more than one SSD/HDD, only connect the one you plan to install your OS to at this time. It will simplify things when you're choosing which to install to initially.
After you've gotten those devices plugged in, it's time to place the PSU into the case. Depending on your case this could either be on the top or bottom (refer to the case manual if you are unsure where to attach it). Don't connect the PSU cables to your devices quite yet, and take a moment to think about how you will go about doing so. Many cases have extra space on the opposite side of the motherboard's mount to place cables through. So while you're thinking about that, don't forget to attach your GPU back to the motherboard and secure it. Note that some GPUs will take up two back slots, and if you're doing SLI/Crossfire you can connect them. You might also consider now to be a good time to install the CD drive if you forgot.
Now that you've had time to think over how you'll position the PSU cables, go about connecting them. If you're using a modular PSU this step should be pretty simple, but if you are not, don't forget to keep the cables as tidy as you can.
Step 4: Pray and Push the Power Button
At this point you have accomplished the following:
- Motherboard installed
- CPU installed with heatsink
- RAM installed in proper configuration
- GPU installed
- PSU installed
- SSD/HDD installed
- Case setup
- CD drive (if you installed one)
- Some other things that I'm forgetting for one reason or another.
You'll now want to start up the system and see if everything is running. Again, listen for the beep(s), and diagnose issues as needed. After that you'll need to install your OS, but that's smooth sailing. Just don't forget to connect any SSD/HDDs you disconnected before.
Also, make sure to get the latest drivers for your motherboard and GPU. I recommend getting the motherboard ones first. You can your drivers from the manufacturer's respective websites. For the motherboard you'll need the drivers for the chipset, LAN, USB, and audio.
[Edited on 07.06.2012 3:22 AM PDT]