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  • Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ Corsair 300R $50 ]
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ Corsair 300R $50 ]

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |


Original Thread


Current Sales:

Corsair 300R, $50
Corsair HX650 $72


Table of Contents:

1) Building a PC
2) Getting started with Windows; Software, Programs, Optimizations
3) Audio General; Speakers, Headphones, Souncards
4) Audio General; Continued
5) Useful Links and Builds of Other Members


Building a PC: Taken from Cystic. If he would like, I'll type my own section.

After you've gathered all your parts, I'm assuming you're going to wonder what to do with all these wires.

It's a pretty simple process, Of course, and we start with the case and the psu, or if you want, the motherboard, as long as either of them are put in first, it doesn't matter.

1. Fitting the PSU

If you want to fit the motherboard first, go to step 2 then back to step 1.

Open your case up, and look for a corner that looks like it will fit a PSU in it. It should be pretty obvious, if it already isn't, there should be four or 6 mounting screw holes for the PSU, and possibly parts built into the case to keep it into place. Just slot your PSU into there and screw in the appropriate screws.

2. Motherboard

Your case should already have a couple of mounting screws on the side, and it's pretty straightforward to see where the motherboard belongs and how it fits in the system.

The IO shield (there should be a rectangular shaped hole in the back of your PC) should pop right into the back of your case. An IO shield should look something like this.

After popping in the IO shield, check your motherboard box for standoffs (they come in plastic too) and screw them into the case's motherboard mounting holes, then just place the motherboard over the standoffs with the inputs that align to the IO shield (as long as your IO shield isn't upside down), and then screw the motherboard into the standoffs with the provided screws.

If a screw won't go in or slightly flexes the motherboard, it might be recommended to leave this screw out, just as long as your motherboard is secure and you're not having problems with fitting upgrades in the PCI slots (we'll come to those later) the motherboard won't mind having a few screws missing if it doesn't look like it's going to be moving or rattling inside the case.

3. The Processor

In your motherboard, there should be a socket that looks either like this (Newer Intel) or this (Newer AMD), or something similar. It is very important that your socket number matches the motherboard's specifications, e.g LGA 1155 will only work with an LGA 1155 motherboard, even if an LGA 1136 looks like it's going to fit. For AMD, you'll find that they're more versatile in sockets, however, anyone can tell you that you should only vouch for AMD given that you are under a tight budget or are building a computer for relatively basic tasks.

Anyway, you should see a latch on the side of the socket. Lift up the latch, (and if there's a pin protection plate, most likely on Intel motherboards remove it but do not damage it, you may need it later for RMAs.) and place the processor carefully onto the socket (try avoiding contact with the pins, there should be a small indicator such as a small triangle on the CPU and the motherboard showing which way the processor should be placed) then carefully slot the cpu into place, making sure it's in, and then you want to close the lid (for intel processors) and then press the latch down firmly and secure it.

4. The PCI expansions

On your motherboard, there should be a couple of PCI expansion slots, in their respective sizes.

Now depending on the type of graphics card you buy, it should tell you which slot it goes in. Now, you start off by seeing which back plates the PCI slot is aligned to on the case, and you can begin by unscrewing the plate. You will want to do this with the case lying flat. In some cases for larger, or more powerful cards, they will use 2 of these back plates and you will need to unscrew more than one. Some PCI slots come with security latches that secure the card in place, and it should make a clicking sound when you plug the card into the slot. After the card is in place, you can use the screws you've taken out of the back panel to secure the card into the case, so that it stays there.

This applies to other PCI slot accessories, e.g more USB slots, PCI wireless cards, capture cards, etc.

5. The Optical Drive/Blu-Ray Drive/SD Card reader etc.

Now these are very easy to install, inside the front half of your case, there should be a few slots for whichever peripherals you choose to install. Remove the front panel dust shield/filters (if you have any) for the slot you want your drive to take.

Where the dust shield is removed, just slot in the drive and it should not stick out of the front panel, nor should it be pushed inward too much. After the necessary adjustments, you will see holes for screws in the side of the drive bays - you want to secure the drive in place firmly, but not too tightly, just until the screw's turning becomes slightly difficult to turn.

6. Hard Drive

You should see underneath where your disc drive is supposed to be {unless it's some sort of obscure case), there should be a mounting area for HDDs similar to the disc drive bays, now for some cases, you may get easy-install options, such as NZXT's clip-on and slide in. You can also purchase 2.5-3.5 inch conversion cases for your 2.5" HDD if you want to move over data from a laptop or an mATX desktop.

Installation should be straight forward and very similar to the disc drives, you should have no problem installing it. Again, you only have to make sure it's secure, not tighten it to oblivion.

7. Wiring and Cable Management

(Skip the first paragraph if you don't want to use cable management, it saves the hassle afterwards)

If you have a modular PSU, only plug in the power cables you need, and for non-modular PSUs, just keep the spare wires away from the main airflow pats of the machine, you can use zip-ties and bunch them up behind the PC's back panel (if it has one) or just keep them away from the fans.

First, place all of the components inside the case, including the PSU, but keep the cables outside the case. First, take the 24-pin motherboard power cable and put it through the opening closest to the PSU. Run this behind the motherboard and out the hole closest to the 24-pin motherboard connector. Do the same with the 8-pin CPU connector. This is the only cable which might not be long enough, in which case you will need one of these.

Once those cables are in, you'll want to attach the SATA cables to the optical drive, HDD, and any SSD's you might have. You can either run these through the same hole as the 24-pin, or a closer hole. I generally like to use the same SATA A cable for my HDD and optical. If needed, you can lower the position of the optical drive so that the cable will reach, or even raise your hard drives. Make sure that when you are routing these cables that they do NOT overlap on the other cables that you already have, otherwise you will not be able to easily put your side panel back on.

Connect the front panel cords that are attached to your case to the bottom of the motherboard. I generally like to keep them low to the case so that they can go under the other cords and out the hole where the PSU is. You can also route them through the hole under where you inserted the 24-pin, provided you have a case with enough rubber grommets. Although I do not advise it, some builders cut off the AC97 cable that is attached to the HD Audio cable (HD > AC97) so that they have a more clean look.

After this, all that's left are the GPU cables and molex cables for fans. These are pretty self-explanatory. Just remember to not overlap cords. If you don't have twist ties, you can go to your local grocery store and grab some of those green twist ties in the produce section. You also might have some that came with your PC components.

I'll post my build with labels once my H100 comes back from Corsair.


Infographics (NSFW on the mousepad image).

[Edited on 01.06.2013 1:24 PM PST]

  • 12.27.2012 10:49 AM PDT
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0

wtf

  • 12.27.2012 10:50 AM PDT

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |


Getting started with Windows; Software, Programs, Optimizations:


Programs:

7-zip*, Better at compressing than WinRAR, no expiration, faster.
Any Video Converter, can use multiple threads.
Audacity, free audio editing and recording.
Bandicam, lower resource usage than Fraps, better quality, can upload straight to YouTube (full version costs money).
CCleaner, run this to get rid of those extra junk files.
Colorcop, identify the exact color of parts of an image or page.
CPU-ID*, Gives you info about various PC components, e.g. CPU clocks and RAM speeds.
Defraggler, thorough, sometimes fast, lots of options.
Fences, Organize your desktop.
Foobar, plays high-quality audio, TONS of plugins, e.g. Columns UI.
GIMP, dumbed down Photoshop with a larger learning curve.
Livestream Procaster, free, high resource demand.
MSI Afterburner*, Change dGPU clocks and fan speed, excludes laptops.
Mumble, less resources than Skype, Vent, Teamspeak, etc., better quality, open source.
Notepad++, cooler version of notepad that supports tabs, colors, paragraphs, etc.
PowerISO, For copying and burning discs.
Realtemp, Monitor CPU and GPU temps.
Revo Uninstaller, when you uninstall programs, some files are left in the registry. This makes sure that those are removed.
Speccy, Get your specs.
Stickies, Fun little notes.
Teracopy*, Speed up your copy and paste processes.
Unlocker*, Windows won't let you delete a file? Screw you Windows.
VLC*, For all forms of media, runs FLAC and other types of files.
WYSIWYG BBCode Editor, for copying forum codes.
XSplit, low resource streaming, low quality recording, costs money.

* indicates must-have programs

Anti-Malware Programs:

Avast!, my favorite anti-virus software. Uses less resources than AVG, but more than MSE.
AVG, used to be good, but I think it has fallen behind Avast!
Malwarebytes, download this even if you have either of the above ones. Use it to manually scan for viruses.
Microsoft Security Essentials, uses the least resources, but may have trouble with torrented operating systems.


Keyboards, Mice and Peripherals:


Mice:

CM Storm Recon
CM Storm Spawn
Logitech G400
Logitech G500
Logitech G9x (MW3)
Microsoft IME 3.0
Microsoft IMO 1.1
Microsoft Optical Mouse Blue
Microsoft WMO 1.1
Mionix 3200 / 5000 (Palm)
Razer Abyssus
Razer Deathadder 3.0G
Razer Deathadder 3.5G
Razer Deathadder 3.5G Black Edition
Steelseries Sensei
Zowie AM

Keyboards:

Check out Wise's image guides.

CM Quickfire Rapid
Filco Majestouch 2 (Amazon)
Ducky Shine 2 / Ducky Year of the Dragon (TKL)
Leopold
WASD
Rosewill

Other Peripherals:

Steelseries 9HD / 4HD mousepad
Logitech Pro 9000 Webcam
3M Leather Wrist Rest


[Edited on 12.27.2012 10:55 AM PST]

  • 12.27.2012 10:50 AM PDT

"There's this theory that if there were an infinite number of monkeys pecking away at typewriters, they would eventually write the great works of Shakespeare, but thanks to the internet we now know that's not true." -Adam Savage

"Time is not made out of lines. It is made out of circles. That is why clocks are round." -Caboose

NOTE: This is my new primary account. My old account was AgentCOPP1, and I changed it because it was linked to a gamertag that I no longer use.

wat is this i dun get it

  • 12.27.2012 10:50 AM PDT

Name: Vien (Sven) 'Quitonm
Age: 19
Species: Sangheili
Height: 6'7"
Weight: 240 Lbs.
Eye Colour: Grey

Why a second thread?

  • 12.27.2012 10:50 AM PDT
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ Corsair 300R $50 ]

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |


Audio General; Speakers, Headphones, Souncards:

The average day of audiophile.


Headsets?:

Alright, here's where Fluffy is going to lay some science on you. Generally, gaming headsets range from $50-$300. What exactly is a gaming headset? Well, imagine it as a $20 gas-station headphone with a built in microphone. Yeah, they really are that cheap. So I come here to offer you an alternative, headphones made for music, but ones that perform exceptionally better than headset brands such as Tritton, Turtlebeach, Razer, Logitech, or Astro.
Microphones:

First off, you're going to need a mic to work with them. This is the easiest part. If you want a cheaper solution, don't mind having an extra cord down your side, travel often, and would rather use a 3.5mm jack than a USB, then get a Zalman clip-on mic.

If you have ten more bucks, only want to have the headphone cord in your way, have a spare USB port, and care about quality, get a Logitech desktop mic. I suggest the second, but either one works.

A third alternative is the AntLion Modmic, but be prepared to wait a while to order one. If you really want to get into high-quality microphones, you can look at Audio-Technica or Blue.

Brands:

Grado - generally, bright, forward, aggressive, with great sense of immediacy/speed and energy, but not as spacious sounding as Senns or AKGs or Beyers. Easier to drive than the competition, but do benefit a good deal from amping, especially tube amps I think.

Alessandro - technically like Grado, but more relaxed and neutral.

Sennheiser - Generally balanced with some extra warmth. Smooth and relaxed sound compared to Grados with better sense of space and better imaging (depending on the models compared). More neutral. Some find them not as detailed as Grado's and veiled or lacking energy. Most of their high end cans need a great amp and source to shine and also balancing.

Denon - Bassy. Great soundstage and imaging for closed cans. Good detial accuracy. Bass is very deep but can be boomy with wrong source and/or amp. Mods apparently help a lot (i.e markl mod). Also need good amp and source.

Audio-Techinca - Their open models and some closed ones are bass light for some, but bass quality is generally good. Their closed cans can actually be quite bassy. Midrange is usually a bit forward or recessed depending on the model. Treble can also be forward or recessed. Something like a mix of Grados and Senns - not as aggressive as Grado, but not as laid back as Senn. Known for great imaging and soundstage. Generally easy to drive.

AKG - Known for great clarity. their full-sized open cans are also known for excellent soundstage and imaging. Some think their open cans are a bit lean on bass and forward on treble (i.e K701) Other think they neutral. Also known for realistic tonality. generally hard to drive and require a good amount of burn-in to open up.

Beyerdynamic - known for great treble. Some cans like DT770 are also known for huge bass which some think is overpowering and/or bloated. Are generally not easy to drive, but easier than Senn HD6** series. The sound is usually clear and clean and somewhat bright/enthusiastic. Generally more neutral than Audio-Technica, kinda like Senn, but with different flavour. Some think Beyers are more neutral and Senns sound too sweet, but that depends on which models you compare.

Ultrasone - Very controversial cans. Some think they are very neutral and revealing, but need a lot of juice and/or burn-in to reach their full potential. others think their basses are bloated or overpowering and treble is harsh/metallic and mids are recessed. They are generally acknowledged as having good soundstage for closed headphones though.

Headphone Suggestions:

Now that you have a basic idea of what the brands are, I can show you the prices. Here is the go-to headphone buying guide. It has the most information out of any thread I have seen in a while, and thus I will refer to it often.

The best setup for your money would be an Audio Technica ATH-AD700 with a Zalman clip-on mic. The total would come out to $100. "But Fluffy, that's as much as a Logitech G930." Well, yes, but it's ten times better. The AD700 is the most comfortable headset on the market for under $150. This is due to the grips that suspend the drivers from your ears without actually touching your head. Speaking of the drivers, they're freaking huge. Again, you won't find this quality in this price range.

If you want an upgrade from this style, you can get the AD900's. I have not listened to both, so I can not accurately compare them (I own the 900's). However, I can attest to the fact that they have the best soundstage out of any headphone. 7.1? More like 9.0 (The .1 being the lack of a sub. They aren't very punchy with the bass. These are treble headphones). Although they only use two drivers, as with any other headphone, the soundstage simulates a much broader environment due to the size of the drivers, not only in games, but in music. Yeah, don't forget that you can also use these babies with your iTunes library (although it will reveal the glaring flaws in lossy files, and then we'll have to start talking Foobar and Bandcamp). One thing though, the 900's are NOT portable in any sense of the word. They are open headphones, so they are very exposed to moisture. They're also super fragile. Expect these to stay at your computer.

If you want on-the-go headphones, look into the V-Moda M-80's. Bass heavy, removable cable, foldable. You can purchase custom ear-shields for about $23, and your first purchase is 15% off. You can also upgrade to any pair after that for 50% off if your cans break.


Best Headphones for the Price:

Audio-Technica's ATH-AD900 ~$195
Beyerdynamic's DT880 (600 Ohm) ~$340
Sennheiser's HD600 - $399
HE-400 - $399
HE-500 - $699

[Edited on 01.06.2013 10:22 AM PST]

  • 12.27.2012 10:50 AM PDT
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |


Now that we have that huge paragraph out of the way, we can move on to another important component; the soundcard. Onboard audio has gotten a ton better over the years, but soundcards will give you a huge boost in sound quality, which extends to games obviously as well. First, you want to choose if you want a soundcard or would rather purchace a DAC. A soundcard will be either PCI or PCI-E (check your slots and wattage), and will generally perform better for a lower price. Examples of good soundcards include:

Soundcards:

ASUS Xonar Essence STX. The best, bar none. Source: I own one. It has everything you need, two ports for a 2.0/2.1 speaker setup (more if you have a sub), a headphone jack, a mic jack, and you can change the amp. It only has one flaw; You'll never want to listen to your iPod ever again. Also, it doesn't cook you bacon in the morning. The drivers are a bit old, so pick up the Unified drivers. I have had zero issues with them, but some people have had problems. My guess is that they used the disk instead of downloading them online. Just be sure to check the Hi-Fi setting (HF button above DSP) to keep the quality from being altered.

ASUS Xonar DGX 5.1. A much cheaper solution, but also with its obvious flaws. Not as high of a quality amp, meaning the sounds will not be as rich, but it's stil a MASSIVE improvement over onboard audio. It also only has 3.5mm jacks, as opposed to the 6.3mm that most high quality headphones use. The good news is that there are adapters, so you can still use the headphones, just not to their full potential. If you're not a serious audiophile, you should still pick this up if you have the money. Use the Unified drivers again. The DG is PCI but has a better amp and does NOT require a molex plug to power it.

Digital-to-Analog-Converters:

If you want to go a different route, you need a DAC and amp. Basically, a DAC converts the audio from digital to analog, which is, in a nutshell, higher quality. The amp is used to bypass the resistivity of high-ohm headphones and bring out their frequency responsiveness. Basically, louder and more clear.

Example of a USB DAC. Example of an amp.

Other amps and DAC's include:

Audioengine D1 24-bit DAC
HRT Music Streamer II DAC
FiiO D3 DAC
Tube Magic DAC

FiiO E7 (DAC) and E9 (Amp)
FiiO E10 DAC and Amp
FiiO E17 DAC and Amp

Cmoy Amp
Objective2 Amp
Little Dot Amp

As you can see, these pieces of equipment are very diverse in quality and price. Now, the good thing is that you can use headphones without a soundcard, DAC, or amp. The 700's don't even need an amp (although they still benefit from a DAC/SC), so you wouldn't add those until later.

In a nutshell, if you want to go cheap, just get the 700's and Zalman. If you want to go expensive, get the 900's, Logitech, and Xonar Essence. If you want something in between, get the 700's, either mic, and a DAC of your choosing (but only after researching it). This is a huge field to get into, and extends well beyond headphones into speakers, and even the types of files and music players that you use. Never take anyone's word, even mine, just because they said so. Do your own research. Everyone has different ears, so what sounds good to me might not sound good to you. I can, however, objectively say that the 700's are best for gaming, but in the music realm, that's a different story.

You might not think that the price is justified, but going from onboard audio to dedicated equipment is like moving from a console to the PC, or upgrading your mouse and keyboard.


Speakers:

Audioengine A2 (DS1 stands)
Audioengine A5
M Audio AV40

  • 12.27.2012 10:51 AM PDT
  • gamertag: [none]
  • user homepage:

Add format factory. its a free program that can convert all video and audio files. it also gets video files from dvd's among other things.

  • 12.27.2012 10:51 AM PDT
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ Corsair 300R $50 ]

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |


Steam names and builds: (Members of the master race)

Format: Steam Name (Bnet Name) Link to computer

ABotelho23 (ABotelho)
(About 540 Jews) Build
Acknown3 (PMC Fluffy) Build Picture
Braydzz (SHOTTY SNIP3R) Build
(CostlyAxis) Build
DarkR3flection (Direct Control) Build
dreamer878 (ThirstyAvenge) Build, Picture
(EvilTaffyapple) Build
ferrari_dude_56 (Ferrari DuDe856) Build Album
(Maximo12222) Build
originalxmun (superbunnie) Build, Picture 1 2
(Postwarbean85) Build
SpazticWonder (SuicidalSplatter) Build
(thebig100) Build
thehippyelite (thehippyelite)
thesaltychip (THE SALTY CHIP) Build
TheScottishBadger (AaronG67) Build
(TopWargamer) Build
TurquoiseJesus (Xx idunno xX) Build


Other Links:

Useful Websites:
PCPP - Cheapest retailer calculator.
/r/buildapc
Anandtech - The place for benchmarks.

Newegg Videos:
Choosing Your Components.
The Build.
Installing Windows & Finishing Touches.

Image Guides:
Logical Increments PC Buying Guide. Website.
Why you don't want a prebuilt.
Why you don't want a Mac.

Other Websites:
Sean's SSD Optimization Guide.
Official Intel CPU Comparison.
Compare other GPU stats.
Compare mobile GPU's.
/r/Zeos - Quick and cheap audio setups
/r/GamingPC
/r/Battlestations
/r/CableManagement
Beyerdynamic DT Series Comparison
ASUS Xonar Essence STX settings
Mad Lust Envy's Headphone Gaming Guide
Monitor Guide

CostlyAxis's posts:
Building a PC
Picking compatible parts


Examples of multiple monitors:

Single monitor. (Casual setup.)
Triple monitors. (Higher FOV in games.)
Horizontal-Vertical (Game while using the other for forums or music.)
Horizontal-2x Vert (Better multi-tasking.)
Five monitors (Best aspect ratio for RTS, MMO, MOBA games.)
Six monitors (Similar to the previous reason.)
Eight (+one) monitors. (For programming.)


Example of how a battlestation should NOT look:

Linky

> Razer
> Non-mechanical keyboard
> Bose speakers
> Thick bezel monitors
> Improper monitor ratio
> Taskbar icons pinned on right
> Vista
> Tool headset
> Blue is best color


Other battlestation examples:

Linky

[Edited on 01.06.2013 10:15 AM PST]

  • 12.27.2012 10:51 AM PDT
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0

Xbox LIVE gamertag: Dat3lessNutella
Steam username: TopWargamer
To look up my Halo stats...search for the gamertag TopWargamer.
SAVED THREAD PAGES: 283
One does not simply get rid of TopWargamer so easily.
You know this to be true.
ALL HAIL GABEN

Fluffy should have made reserved posts at the beginning.

Lets see where this thread takes us though.

  • 12.27.2012 10:54 AM PDT
  • gamertag: [none]
  • user homepage:


Posted by: TopWargamer
Fluffy should have made reserved posts at the beginning.

Lets see where this thread takes us though.


Or he can just pm a mod and ask them to delete the posts.


So why is a second thread needed? Is it just getting to hard to track down posts in the other one or something?

  • 12.27.2012 10:56 AM PDT

Xbox LIVE gamertag: Dat3lessNutella
Steam username: TopWargamer
To look up my Halo stats...search for the gamertag TopWargamer.
SAVED THREAD PAGES: 283
One does not simply get rid of TopWargamer so easily.
You know this to be true.
ALL HAIL GABEN

OP isn't active in the original thread and he doesn't update his OP.

  • 12.27.2012 10:58 AM PDT

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |

Posted by: TopWargamer
Fluffy should have made reserved posts at the beginning.

Lets see where this thread takes us though.
I tried, but people were spamming the thread to get first.

Posted by: Vien Quitonmee
Why a second thread?
Because the OP of the previous thread was neglecting updating the original with links to builds of the other members, necessary programs, etc.

  • 12.27.2012 10:58 AM PDT
  • gamertag: [none]
  • user homepage:

I find that Teh-Ziod is NOT attractive for the reasons
she/he does not correct format sentences, therefore for intelligent matured members of society that may interact with her/him, may find her/him UNattractive for the reason that she/he does not comprehend with their level to successfully have a conversation therefore it will be socially an awkward interaction which may be wanted to be avoided

second i do not find it physically possible for a PERSON to be a ice cream truck.

Just to let you guys know, you may run into an issue with trying to get the thread pinned, given that the original thread was the most recent posted in, it is at the top. If this thread gets pinned, you'll have two versions up there. You may want to ask a mod to go ahead and lock the old thread so that doesn't happen. Anyhow, I remembered this old thread from a while back. Not sure if there is anything you may want to integrate into the OP.

  • 12.27.2012 11:02 AM PDT

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |

I sent a PM to Recon, and I'll check out that thread you posted.

  • 12.27.2012 11:07 AM PDT

Finally someone can update the thread. The other one is hardly a guide to building one with only half of it done.

  • 12.27.2012 11:21 AM PDT

Who the hell do you think I am?

My PCPP link: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/t6TN

  • 12.27.2012 11:36 AM PDT

This is great!

Should we post our Steam ID's? Mine is ABotelho23.

I'll post my PCPP link once my build is 100% complete, which is within a few days.

  • 12.27.2012 11:40 AM PDT

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |

I changed the section where the builds are linked to include both their steam name and computer.

  • 12.27.2012 11:45 AM PDT

Posted by: A sweet noob
Ah, the internet. Where men are men, women are men, and children are the FBI.

I'll help start off this new thread with a computer question, I suppose (not particularly build related, but nonetheless). Ive been looking for a new laptop somewhere around a $600 range. I think for the money, this one is pretty good ($580ish on Newegg after coupon discount). Anyone confirm, or suggest a better one? Would be using it for light gaming and school work. Only real downside to it, from what ive seen, is that it is windows 8.

  • 12.27.2012 11:55 AM PDT

This is my build

I was a complete novice and managed to build this with the help of a lot of you in the original thread.

Really pleased with how it turned out, and really wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.

I'm testament that a complete noobie can do this.

  • 12.27.2012 12:01 PM PDT

Xbox LIVE gamertag: Dat3lessNutella
Steam username: TopWargamer
To look up my Halo stats...search for the gamertag TopWargamer.
SAVED THREAD PAGES: 283
One does not simply get rid of TopWargamer so easily.
You know this to be true.
ALL HAIL GABEN

My build from PC Part Picker.

  • 12.27.2012 12:02 PM PDT

MLP: FiM Master Moderator: | Homepage | My Steam Profile | My Computer |

Posted by: Xx idunno xX
I'll help start off this new thread with a computer question, I suppose (not particularly build related, but nonetheless). Ive been looking for a new laptop somewhere around a $600 range. I think for the money, this one is pretty good ($580ish on Newegg after coupon discount). Anyone confirm, or suggest a better one? Would be using it for light gaming and school work. Only real downside to it, from what ive seen, is that it is windows 8.
That's actually the laptop that I suggest for sub $600, and the fact that it's on sale makes it even better. Go for it!

635m benchmarks.

  • 12.27.2012 12:02 PM PDT
Subject: PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ 660 Ti and i5 on sale! ]
  • gamertag: [none]
  • user homepage:

They don't think it be like it is...


But it do.

Link my stuff in the OP if you make a section for pictures of builds or steam ID's.

Steam ID: originalxmun
Picture of completed build: Completed December 26th 2012

EDIT: PC Part Picker

[Edited on 12.27.2012 12:19 PM PST]

  • 12.27.2012 12:18 PM PDT
  • gamertag: [none]
  • user homepage:

PRAISE THE SUN!

Ah! A new thread?

PRAISE THE SUN!

  • 12.27.2012 12:20 PM PDT